The industry is buzzing about the power of retinoids in reducing and preventing wrinkles. Here's the lowdown.
Topical vitamin A–based drugs called retinoids are the most widely used and researched anti-aging substances, and may help to diminish fine lines and wrinkles. Sold under the brand name Retin-A, the first retinoid was Tretinoin. Used in the 1970s to treat acne, researchers later discovered that it also removes actinic keratosis patches, evens out pigmentation, and speeds up the turnover of superficial skin cells.
Retinoids increase collagen formation, which reduces fine lines and wrinkles. They also encourage the formation of new blood vessels in the skin, which improves the colour of the skin. Other advantages include the disappearance of age spots and the smoothing of tough regions of skin. However, improvements in wrinkles require three to six months of consistent use, and the optimum effects take six to twelve months.
Because retinoids can cause skin irritation and dryness, doctors often advise using them every other day at first, then gradually increasing to nightly applications. Because retinoids increase the skin's sensitivity to sunlight, use sunscreen during the day. To keep their benefits, these medications must be taken on a regular basis.
Prescription retinoids include tretinoin (Retin-A, generic), tazarotene (Avage, Tazorac), and adapalene (Differin). Adapalene is also available without a prescription (in a 0.1 percent formulation versus the 0.3 percent prescription version). Clinical trials for other retinoids are now underway.
There are also a number of over-the-counter retinoids, such as retinol, on the market. They're not as good at eliminating wrinkles as tretinoin because they're not as potent (and hence less irritating), but they do enhance the appearance of photo-aged skin. Tretinoin can be used with alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) to provide even more skin-smoothing benefits.
How Does Retinol Work on the Skin?
Retinol is one of the best-known skin care ingredients on the market. An over-the-counter (OTC) version of retinoids, retinols are vitamin A derivatives primarily used to treat anti-aging concerns as well as acne.
That said, retinols are not the same products as prescription retinoids, which are more potent. However, retinol is still the strongest OTC version available as compared to other OTC retinoids such as retinaldehyde and retinyl palmate. Retinol has many potential skin care benefits, but there are side effects to consider, too.
Retinol is a type of retinoid, which is made from vitamin A. Rather than removing dead skin cells as many other anti-aging and acne products do, the small molecules that make up retinol go deep beneath the epidermis (outer layer of skin) to your dermis.
Once in this middle layer of skin, retinol helps neutralize free radicals to boost the production of elastin and collagen. This creates a “plumping” effect that reduces the appearance of fine lines, wrinkles, and enlarged pores. At the same time, retinol has an exfoliating effect on the skin’s surface that can further improve texture and tone.
Retinol can also help treat severe acne, as well as related scarring. It helps keep your pores unclogged by creating comedolytic agents to help prevent the formation of comedones or blemishes. For severe acne, your dermatologist may prescribe an antibiotic in conjunction with your retinol treatment. Keep in mind that it may take up to six weeks to see improvements in your breakouts.
Finally, retinol has also been proven to balance your skin hydration levels. Mild exfoliating effects help to remove dead skin cells that may lead to moisture loss. This may even benefit oily skin by controlling excess production of sebum in your pores.
What Retinol treats
Retinol is a type of retinoid, which is made from vitamin A. Rather than removing dead skin cells as many other anti-aging and acne products do, the small molecules that make up retinol go deep beneath the epidermis (outer layer of skin) to your dermis.
Once in this middle layer of skin, retinol helps neutralize free radicals to boost the production of elastin and collagen. This creates a “plumping” effect that reduces the appearance of fine lines, wrinkles, and enlarged pores. At the same time, retinol has an exfoliating effect on the skin’s surface that can further improve texture and tone.
Retinol can also help treat severe acne, as well as related scarring. It helps keep your pores unclogged by creating comedolytic agents to help prevent the formation of comedones or blemishes. For severe acne, your dermatologist may prescribe an antibiotic in conjunction with your retinol treatment. Keep in mind that it may take up to six weeks to see improvements in your breakouts.
Finally, retinol has also been proven to balance your skin hydration levels. Mild exfoliating effects help to remove dead skin cells that may lead to moisture loss. This may even benefit oily skin by controlling excess production of sebum in your pores.
What it treats
Retinol is primarily used to treat the following skin conditions:
acne
fine lines
wrinkles
age (sun) spots, freckles, and other signs of sun damage, sometimes called photoaging
uneven skin texture
melasma and other types of hyperpigmentation
large pores caused by acne, oily skin, or collagen loss
Retinol-containing skincare products need to be used every day to get the optimum benefits however the skin must become accustomed to its use by slowly introducing it into your routine on alternating days. It could take a few weeks before you notice any noticeable changes.
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